Originally it was simply a natural cave in the limestone rock. Now little of
the native rock is seen. Marble slabs cover the floor and line the walls. The
ceiling, which is about ten feet high, is resplendent with thirty-two brass
lamps. Their light enables us to examine the many pictures, portraying scenes in
the life of Jesus, which the devotion of Christians has hung about the walls;
but these pictures are generally very poor as specimens of art. At the east end
of the cave there is a small recess in the rock before which hang fifteen lamps.
In the floor of this recess a bright silver star is inlaid; it is nearly all
worn away by the constant kissing it receives. Around the star is an inscription
in Latin, which tells us that “ Here, of the Virgin Mary, Jesus Christ was
born.” Turning just a little to the right from this Place of the Star, and
descending a few steps, we are in a small chamber called the Grotto of the
Manger. The original manger is, of course, not here; it probably never was
preserved, and many stories about it are inventions of a much later date. Here,
also, is a little altar on the place where the Wise Men from the East prostrated
themselves before the infant Jesus. These three—the places of the birth, the
manger, and the adoration—are all in what is called the Chapel of the Nativity.
Passing out of this Chapel by the steps leading into the Greek Church of St.
Mary, we are again in the streets of Bethlehem.
It is a relief to get away from the glare of lamps, the smoke of candles, and
the heavy odors of burning incense, and to breathe again the fresh air blowing
over the Judean hills. The streets are very quiet, for all not in the church
have retired to their homes. Occasionally people leave the church, and are
driven away in their carriages to Jerusalem, though most will remain all night.
We can wander through the streets and over the neighboring hills, for the clear
moon makes it almost as bright as day.